Hello Taffmeister here
I just thought I would tell you about my web site in the UK
www.taffmeisters.co.ukfirstly this is an owner's web site and I understand you don't want me to sell things here but just incase say I am a life saver!
these are important things you need for starting your Husaberg
ready?
1) a CTZ7s or YTZ7s battery
2) an extra powerful starter motor. It will need a small mounting bracket
3) the starter clutch slips and needs re-shimming
4) the starter sprague slips and needs a stronger spring around the circumference. you can also shorten this spring by 'unscrewing it, cut some off and then screwing back together.
5) the camshaft must be from 2003-2008 code: '08' and NOT '53'. this information is for 2001-2002!
6) the 2001 alloy sprocket must become 2002-2008 steel
7) the 2003-2008 auto decompressor needs fitting for best decompression
8) the auto decomp spring from 2004-2008 is very weak and needs more strength!
9) you need an Iridium plug like th Denso IXU24 or the 'OK' NGK DCPR8EIX
10) the flywheel mark is in the wrong place! you must have the flywheel marks at 12 o clock and then mark a new, 3rd line, to the right the same distance. the three lines make a trident. tipp-ex the new line.
11) the stator must APPEAR to be 1mm to the left of centre when you look through the hole in the right ignition cover.
12) use a timing light for the correct ignition timing at tickover (USA:idle) you should see 6d BTDC. sometimes the timing light sees 12d BTDC. it's OK! just adjust to 6d or 12d.
13) the dell orto carburettor wears out. worst is the atomiser, this wears quickly, the needle also but slower. the choke jet could be a number 40 instead of 45. the 'O' rings perish with old age. and nowadays the fuel valve spring gets old and weak and the carburettor floods the engine. the old 650s run better with a smaller PJ than the recommended 40 the book says. a 38 or maybe a 35 is better. if when the motorcycle runs it 'burbles' all the time it wnats a smaller PJ. if the fuel screw works well at '0' or '0.5' turns then the PJ is too big. finally, there maybe a jet under the PJ missing! yes really! this is the CD1 jet.
all the above steps are physical things wrong when starting the bike.
now things that halp indirectly the starting little by little:
1) the inlet valves 'tulip' into the head = re-cut the seats and have the valves faced
2) with the valves now being thin they are too weak and will tulip twice as quickly the next time. at 110 euros you need another option!
3) dual valve springs in a kit (DVSK) are softer and help starting a little, they make less noise and the bike sounds Japanese. they allow you to keep those inlets if you wish... but lightweight, gas-flowed alloy steel valves at half the price are available and last far longer.
4) the cam chain tensioner blade is weak and becomes 'straight' when you want a 'banana' shape. the later blade can fit and help after modification
5) the camchain is often 'endless' and has a soft link. all camchains are weak except the IWIS of Germany. the best. even this struggles with those nasty valve springs though!
6) if the valves 'sank' into the head then you lost tappet clearances. if you lost these then the cam follower bearings will be finished, feel for 'clonking' in the direction the bearings push? any 'clonk' means you must half push out the pins and if they are grey underneath you have as little as one-hour left. change them. 2001-2002 old style and 2003-2008 new style.
7) the underside of the rocker shafts wear badly also now so put the worst wear on the top. rocker shafts are the only thing we can't get for the engine now......
8) the tappet pads will have cupped and the valve stems will have domed. new tappet pads and always new locknuts. they are a pig to change and take great skill.
9) always do your tappets with the "one sixth of a turn" method
10) don't leave the cam bearings as 'open'. fit new ones with the rubber seals still on 6201 2rs c3. they will otherwise spit the balls out one day.
11) you can improve the kickstarting by modifying the kickstart sledge plate. Get two new modern 'posilock' screws at the same time.
form over function!
to make your bike belissimo!!
1) the stator can be taken from the end of the starter motor and placed under the rubber sock by getting a bracket from the 2004-2008 'solenoid mount'.
2) you should have perfect auto decomp now so you no longer need the handlebar manual decomp. leave the cable on the clutch perch and remove the end on the rocker cover. by modifying the nipple on the end and taking the SHORTEST possible route to the carburettor: you can make a manual choke that operates at the handlebar!
3) you have an 'L bar on the rocker cover, while doing all the other work, have faith, remove it and blank the hole off with a M5 allen screw, fibre washer and locknut.
4) while modifying the kickstart sledge plate why not remove the kickstart decomp arm and cable and also blank this hole off also?
all 2001-2003 Husabergs can and will start first touch but it is always 'marginal'. you must do everything. leave something out from the list and they will not start 'on the button'.
you can improve things in two more ways which you may say are 'extravigant'.
1) use a reconditioned stator. it gives a strong spark and you can feel the difference on its own. worth 250 euros though? ouch!
2) use the carb from the later 2004-2008 Husaberg. the Keihin FCR carb. 39mm is fine, 41mm is better. set correctly, (and the factory didn't) they start even better than a reconditioned dell orto ever will.
I sell everything I have listed here and if you don't mind I would like to tell you a little of what I sell?
if you have any questions I will try and help you. maybe it would be best if this letter was directly translated into Italian.
Grazi!
Taffy
Edited by Taffmeister - 29/8/2012, 11:02
